ONUL Coffee

The Echo Park room sits on Sunset Boulevard, and the format is a bar. Baristas work in front of you, building drinks with the sort of technique that belongs on a cocktail list. The Bloody Matcha Fizz is the headline, and the rest of the board rewards anybody willing to be surprised. One build runs peach-papaya tea into espresso with yuzu and milk-clarified peaches, which is a sentence you do not read on many menus in Los Angeles. It opens Wednesday through Sunday from early morning to the middle of the afternoon and stays shut at the start of the week, so a visit needs a small amount of planning. We rate it as the most interesting thing happening on this stretch of Sunset, and we would take whatever they are proudest of that day.